- Kurzbeschreibung
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A tour that will take you across the Monterosa massif through the most famous 4000-meter peaks of the Alps. 5 days and 4 nights in the Monte Rosa refuges, between Italy and Switzerland. A departure under the gaze of the Matterhorn, an isolated crossing in an "icy" atmosphere to discover the most famous summits of the Alps at more than 4000 meters in mountaineering. To top it all off, the last night will be spent at the highest refuge in the Alps, the Capanna Margherita at 4554m, before heading back down to Gressonney.
- Schwierigkeit
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schwer
- Bewertung
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- Ausgangspunkt
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Cervinia-Valtournenche VDA (ITA)
- Wegverlauf
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Testa Grigia (3.480 m)0,0 kmRifugio Guide del Cervino0,1 kmP3824 (3.824 m)3,0 kmCrepacci9,6 kmPunta Castore (4.228 m)12,0 kmPunta Felik (4.174 m)12,2 kmColle del Felik (4.062 m)12,8 kmPunta Felik (4.087 m)13,0 kmRifugio Quintino Sella al Felik15,1 kmSchneedomspitze (4.272 m)19,9 kmColle Vincent (4.088 m)25,7 kmPyramide Vincent (4.215 m)26,1 kmLudwigshöhe (4.344 m)27,3 kmPointe Gnifetti (4.554 m)29,9 kmMargheritahütte29,9 kmPointe Zumstein (4.562 m)30,7 kmRifugio Città di Mantova35,9 km
- Beste Jahreszeit
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JanFebMärAprMaiJunJulAugSepOktNovDez
- Beschreibung
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D1: Departure from Valtournenche early in the morning towards the gondola to gain the Rosa Plateau, we ascent the Breithorn Occidental at 4160m, facing the Matterhorn! Then we cross the plateau to reach the Ayas Guides hut.
D2: After a early wake up we continue the adventure by climbing the second summit at 4221 m, the famous Castor. This summit, with its sometimes very sharp summit edge, is the highest of the two twin Pollux and Castor. Then we go down to the next refuge, the Quintino Sella al Felik.
D3: We start the third 4000, the Naso del Lyskamm at 4272m, overhung by the mythical Lyskamm traverse. And for those who don't have enough, possibility to climb the Vincent Pyramid at 4215m. Then progressive descent to the next refuge, the Capanna Gnifetti.
D4: With the wake up in the night we start the walk/climb on the Lys glacier to the Ludwigshohe at 4342m, then Punta Gnifetti at 4554m, to reach the Capanna Margherita at 4554m, where we spent the night. Surprising as it may seem, this refuge was built on top of a mountain, which makes it the highest refuge in the Alps! Pizza Margherita off course well deserved at the arrival at the refuge.
D5: According to the conditions, several possibilities are offered to us allowing us to continue the quest of the 4000 of the Monterosa before the return in valley. The must can be the summit of Monte Rosa Massif , the Dufour 4634mt summit that require us a very good preparation and technique of mountaineering. To go down, we join Gressonney la Trinité via the lifts. We rebound the civilisation and we have deserved a large beer.
- Höchster Punkt
- 4.536 m
- Zielpunkt
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Gressoney La Trinité - Staffa VDA (ITA
- Höhenprofil
- © outdooractive.com
- Ausrüstung
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Glacier mountaineering gears, technical clothings for the high mountain, safety equipment
- Sicherheitshinweise
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One thing not to be underestimated is the time spent above 3200m, including nights. If you get into troubles, there are two bivouacs along the route, to shelter from bad weather or unforeseen illness: Rossi Volante bivouac (below the Breithorn range) and the Giordano bivouac next to the Vincent Pyramid.
- Tipps
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There are various possibilities of variants to this tour to make it longer, more difficult or less demanding depending on your level or weather/mountain conditions.
- Öffentliche Verkehrsmittel
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Train to Turin - Chatillom, then take a bus to Cervini (every hour)
- Autor
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Die Tour ORTOVOX Tourentipp: Monterosa Massif Alpine Tour wird von outdooractive.com bereitgestellt.
Allgemeine Infos
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Unterwallis
23
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Mattertal
25
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Gressoney La Trinité
5